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Surface cover plants
Pond plants
Oxygenating plants
Pond products
Planting schemes
Moist & bog plants

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Aponogeton distachyos bud in ice on the surface of the pond 7.1.15

January 2015
Water Hawthorn bud caught in ice on the surface of the pond this week 7 January 2015
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Bog Gardens - Great British Garden Revival 20.1.15

January 2015
Plants for Bog Gardens - either a moist or a muddy bog
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Wildlife Gardens - Great British Garden Revival 21.1.15

January 2015
Wildlife Gardens - Diamuid Gavin encourages us to add water to a garden to create a wildlife haven
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Container ponds in autumn/winter

December 2014
Autumn and winter tips for a container pond water gardening feature
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Winter in the wildlife pond

December 2014
Winter in the wildlife pond
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Build and plant a bog garden around your pond

November 2014
Create a wildlife habitat area around your pond
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Advice - cleaning out the pond and when is the best time to do it?

November 2014
advice on when and how to clean out your garden pond
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Start preparing for Autumn

October 2014
October - start preparing for Autumn, pond net needed, cutting back pond plants
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Is summer over?

September 2014
What to do in the pond in the next few weeks of September
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What are the keywords to use in the search box?

August 2014
Using our 'site search' box keywords
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Plants for dragonflies

August 2014
Enabling dragonflies to emerge and lay eggs in your pond
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An article written about Water Gardening in Containers

August 2014
About 'Ponds in pots' in 'Which' June 2013 and The Garden magazine June 2008
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Advice - What is eating my waterlily leaves?

August 2014
Is it waterlily beetle or pond snails eating my waterlily leaves?
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Planting schemes available for ponds

July 2014
Collections of pond plants to give a balanced selection for the different areas of a pond
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Wildlife cover in the summer

July 2014
Providing surface cover across the pond water in hot weather
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Pond plants - repotting a marginal pond plant

July 2014
Tips on repotting marginal pond plants throughout the season
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Too hot for the pond

July 2014
the pond in hot weather
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Will the water be stagnant in a container pond or likely to turn green with algae?

June 2014
using oxygenating plants and barleystraw extract to care for the water in my container pond
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Warmer weather on the way

June 2014
june in your pond
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Pond plants for insect pollinators

May 2014
encouraging insect pollinators to visit plants in your pond
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Planting wildlife friendly ponds
Create a wildlife pond and bog garden and use British Native pond plant species 
and moisture loving plants to give a strong wildlife habitat for a wetland area.
To buy British Native pond plants add Native to our search box and all varieties will be shown.

Wildlife ponds

great crested newts strings of toad spawn smooth newt on dry land for winter dragonfly in flight greater water boatman
Wildlife ponds support a huge range of creatures including invertebrates - pond skaters, water boatmen, water beetles and pond snails as well as amphibians - frogs, toads and newts. All these creatures will colonise a pond themselves. It is against the law to move great crested newts and natterjack toads from their chosen habitat.

As a rule fish and amphibians do not thrive in the same pond as fish will eat the young tadpoles and newt larva. The froglets, toadlets and newt efts leave the pond using a shallow slope or climbing on planted baskets and then benefit from an area around the pond that is well planted with bog plants and that has logs and stones to hide under that give them cover from predators. These predators include garden birds such as blackbirds that come to the pond to drink and bathe. Dragonfly and damselfly will breed in ponds. Their larvae live in shallow, sheltered water for some years and need submerged plants as cover and for hunting prey. They will eat other insects, fish fry and tadpoles and need taller emergent pond plants to crawl up when they become adults.
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What should I think about when I want to build a wildlife pond?

Firstly, think about the siting of the pond.

It should be in a part of the garden not overhung by trees but an area that is secluded where the creatures that visit the pond will feel secure as they come and go. It should have easy access in and out so sloping sided areas or plenty of vegetation they can use as 'stepping stones' to climb out. If you can surround it on one or more sides by planting from a moist habitat, bog garden or hedgerow then that will give the amphibians greater cover and protection from birds and other predators as they look for food. Or create a pile of stones or rocks near to a shallow stony beach where they can quickly find shelter.
Amphibians return to the pond water to mate and lay eggs after winter hibernation on land in wood piles or under garden buildings. They will make a number of journeys in and out of the water in a season so plantings of uncut foliage will link these areas together. Patios, tarmac drives, fences divide up the natural garden and make wildlife journeys more hazardous.
Suggested pond profile showing shelf arrangement

The pond should be built to a depth of 60-75 cm (2' - 2'6") - shelf 3 - with other plant shelves at different depths - 15cm (6") for shelf 1 and 30cm (12") for shelf 2. These should be as wide as possible to accomodate the different marginal plant species and the areas of water they want to colonize.
Do not build a rim of shelves 6" wide around a larger surface area of deep water as this will be unbalanced proportionately when you come to plant. One third to one half of the pond surface area should be given to shelf planting areas.
The pond plants should be placed on the shelves in their baskets and the pond wildlife will use these to get out of the water. It is more successful if you keep the pond plants in separate baskets rather than planting them all directly into mud on the shelves as the vigorous plants will take over the entire shelf area and the less vigorous plants will be swamped.
To allow creatures such as hedgehogs a way to climb out if they should fall into the pond at least one side should be made as a sloping shelf. In between the cobbles used to cover the liner on this sloping shelf you can use pond plants that enjoy water at their roots but not too much depth of water over their crowns. You could use Caltha palustris Alba, Veronica  beccabungaJuncus ensifolius or Cyperus eragrostis and these will also provide habitat cover for small amphibians as they venture out of the pond on this route.
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How many plants do I need to create a balanced wildlife habitat?

As a rule of thumb you need 2 bunches or 9cm basket of oxygenators per m² of surface area but less the larger the pond size aiming for 30% of the volume in time.

You need to aim for 60% of your water surface area covered by plants - either waterlily or annual surface cover plants. (Look at the ultimate spread of each category of waterlily to find the most suitable for your size of pond and supplement their spread in the short term using floating surface cover plants and rafting plants) 

Then choose emergent pond plants for the shelf areas at a rate of 1x1 litre basket per linear foot of shelf space. The wider the shelf the more plants you will need and the more natural the finished look as you can group the plants in clusters. In a larger pond buy 3 of a kind of plant and a contour mesh basket and put all 3 in the contour together. Fill the remaining space with gravel and you have an instant clump effect and weight at the base to help keep tall plants upright. 
Our planting schemes provide a 'one click solution'. We put together a balanced combination of plants to suit the size of pond you have and can tailor this to a sunny or shaded location if we are given this infomation.
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How do I choose the right plants for my wildlife pond?

Pond plant scale and size?
me marginal plants are more suited to garden wildlife ponds others to a larger lake situation. Dependant on the size of your wildlife water area choose the varieties carefully - ie. Typha latifolia is a vigorous rafting plant but Typha minima is a smaller clumping variety. The same is true for Iris. The Native is the Yellow Flag Iris - Iris pseudacorus which can grow to 5ft tall and spreads into a solid clump of 2ft width within a couple of years. There are more restrained Iris 2ft 6" in height with a slower growth rate that fit more in the scale of most garden ponds that are not Natives. The choice of colours then include blues, purples, whites and black.

British Natives or non-natives?
Oxygenating plants should always be Native species as all the non Native are highly vigorous.
Callitriche palustris (Starwort) or Ceratophyllum demersum (Hornwort) are good for starting up wildlife ponds and both can be used together. In a new pond, the stocking rate for oxygenating plants should be two bunches or 9cm pots per m² of surface area. They occupy different areas of the pond as do the wildlife species you hope to attract - Hornwort gives underwater cover for newts, frogs and toads and the Starwort gives surface protection and cover for tadpoles and water boatmen whilst both use up the nitrates in the water and help to avoid the growth of blanketweed and other algaes. Potamogeton crispus is valuable in a more shady pond and Ranunculus aquatilis for moving water.

Not all the marginal pond plant species for a wildlife pond have to be British Natives - some other species such as Pontederia add a later flowering season and interesting leaf structure to a wildlife pond. Some British Natives pond plants can be too vigorous for a small scale area. There are smaller varieties such as Juncus ensifoliusCaltha palustris Alba that are all members of a family that contain Native plants but these particular varieties are not classed as Native pond plants. Because of the 'family connections' they do not look out of place in a wildlife setting and are not invasive. These can make interesting additions to a wildlife pond in a smaller scale area than the Native Juncus effusus, Cyperus longus and Caltha palustris which are all more vigorous.

There is only one Native waterlily and that is potentially large and only in white. Smaller white waterlilies are available for a smaller pond that are not Native and these are used in our smallest Native pond scheme. Coloured waterlilies are available in the non native category and are used in the Pond starter collections along with more brightly coloured flowers and variegated foliage.
British Native planting scheme

Add Native to our search (top right hand corner) and that will give you all the British Native plants available through our website to choose from for planting a wildlife pond.

Purchase the Native Planting scheme and
we will send you a scheme that will introduce a balance of pond plant species for a small wildlife pond including plants for different positions in the pond. For a larger pond Native Planting scheme 2 - 3 can be purchased.

Muddy to moist areas Blending out from the wet areas of the pond the wetland habitat planting should be dense in places to allow the creatures that come and go from the water at various stages of their life cycles to do so safely under the protection of plant foliage. In the boggy wetland areas pond plants that like wet mud can be used - Caltha, Iris, Eriophorum and Lysichiton. If you have created a separate area for moist loving plants alongside your linered pond then plants for moist or damp conditions can be used to create the necessary sheltered habitat eg. Darmera peltata, Iris ensata and Ligularia species.

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What are the best plants to encourage newts?

A dull brown newt hiding in leaf litter in Autumn Smooth Newts have a dull brown skin colouring as camoflage as they overwinter in log piles, compost heaps or under sheds - anywhere frost free and safe from predators like cats or birds.
They do not hibernate but stay dormant so in a spell of warmer weather - 10C or above at night they may emerge and look for food - earthworms, slugs or insects. They are nocturnal and will begin to travel to their ponds for breeding as it warms but find shelter again if it turns cold.
A adult newt returning to the pond in Spring with orange underbelly Smooth Newts return to the pond as mating adults at around 3 years old and are about 3" long. They are looking for still water with no fish in the pond and space to perform their mating routine which generally ocurs at dawn and dusk. Males ready for mating can be distinquished by their orange markings on both tail and underbelly. These newts can be identified as Smooth newts not Palmate newts as their back feet are not webbed.
Adult male and female smooth newts ready for courtship
The male tries to attract the female with his bright tummy and fans his brightly edged tail to waft his glandular secretions to her encouraging her to swim and follow him so that when he drops his spermatophore she will swim over it and it will attach to her underbelly. She looks plumper on the hips at the moment as she has a bellyful of eggs waiting to be fertilized. She can store the sperm of more than one male in her body for a few days until she fertilizes the eggs just before laying. (photographed 22 February 2014)  
Great crested newts are blacker in colour and larger than Smooth or Palmate newts - about 5-6" long. The male has a silver stripe the length of his tail when he is of mating age and a very pronounced crest when swimming in the water. It is against the law to handle, disturb or disrupt the pond area associated with Great Crested Newts. 
(Image courtesy of Jim Grundy)
The female newts will lay their eggs between March and June (approx) in the leaves of rafting plants so these are good pond plants to encourage any of the 3 Native species of newts to breed successfully in your pond.(Great Crested, Smooth and Palmate Newts).
(Image is of female Great Crested Newt)

Native species of rafting 
- Mentha aquatica, Veronica beccabunga and Myosotis scirpioides raft horizontally across the water with some leaves submerged under the waters surface. Oxygenators like Water Cress also have small submerged leaves that are useful to newts.
The photo shows the folded leaves of Myosotis scirpioides that have been used by the female newt to wrap her eggs in for safety from infection and predators. She lays and wraps each egg individually folding the leaf over the egg and securing it by sealing the fold with a secretion. One female will lay several eggs a day and can lay between 150 - 300 eggs in a season that will take between 10-20 days to hatch dependant on temperature (but only 1% of eggs laid will reach adulthood).
Newt larvae or tadpoles develop from the eggs and swim in the pond hiding in the oxygenating weed using their gills to breathe and feeding on aquatic insects. They have no legs at this stage and as each batch of eggs develops you can see a range of sizes of tadpole within one pond - here they range from 1cm to 3cm. In June when they have grown and developped legs they begin to leave the water as efts to look for food in the surrounding undergrowth. Ideally you will supply an area of plants next to the pond for this foraging and for protection from predators. 
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How can I help frogs to spawn & survive in my pond?

Frogs may live in the pond over winter as they can breathe through their skin but most frogs return to the pond (by jumping) to mate in Spring from their hibernating places on land. Their skin is smooth and shiny and often covered with blotchy markings. The males return first to the pond they were raised in and attract the female to themselves by croaking. They mate in shallow areas of the pond amongst plant growth.
Once he has attracted his female he will grip her from above with his forelimbs in an embrace called 'amplexus'. The female will then lay spawn which is fertilized by the male as it is released. The female will use plant growth to support herself during this process as she can be suffocated. The mating can last for days and more than one male can mount one female while she is laying spawn.

Froglife (the wildlife charity for conservation of amphibians and reptiles) advise that frogspawn is not taken from one pond to another to help control the spread of invasive pond plants and amphibian disease.

Each female usually produces one clump of frog spawn in a season usually in warm days in March. Frog spawn is laid as lumps about the size of a tennis ball made up of jelly and eggs on shallow shelf areas and then as they mature these lumps swell to grapefruit size and float to the water surface so that many can merge to look like one jelly mat.
Pond conservation are asking pond owners to take part in the Big Spawn Count 2014 to see how many lumps of spawn appear in your pond so they can see how many breeding females are reported. 
Big Spawn Count 2012 count results: The average number of spawn clumps in garden ponds was12 equivalent to 12 breeding females visiting. It was quite common for people to report over 20 clumps. Bigger ponds (classified as 5m in diameter) had more spawn, with an average of 28 clumps and the smallest garden ponds had an average of just over 6 clumps.
Big Spawn Count 2013 count results: similar volumes of spawn were produced in 2013 but at least 2 weeks later due to the cold Spring with 2 peaks - one in mid March and the second in mid April. The average number of clumps remained at 12 with 60% of people that completed the survey reporting 10 clumps or less indicating 10 visiting females. Click to read the full results.
Over the weeks of spawning many frogs will appear in the water and a mass of movement and frog spawn can be the result. Our pond had over 40 frogs in it at one point and created at least 15 balls of spawn which soon merged together as a swollen mass of jelly that would protect the eggs. The juvenile frogs not yet capable of mating (3 years old) may appear in the pond too.

The adult female lays several thousand eggs to allow for huge losses - each in a clump of jelly with dark brown-black centres but a clump of spawn will sit half submerged under the water and half exposed to the air and so vulnerable to being killed by overnight frosts.
Very cold weather can interrupt spawning - a second batch of frogspawn may appear in your pond once the cold weather subsides. Dead eggs will have grey or white centres. In a light frost only the spawn closest to the surface will be killed the rest may survive as they are insulated from the cold in the centre of the clump. If a small amount of spawn has died leave it in the pond and it will break down or get eaten by other creatures but a large amount of decomposing spawn jelly can overload the pond with nutrients so take it out and put it on the compost heap.
Live frog tadpoles will live on the jelly at first that provided protection before they hatched out and will then survive by eating algae and vegetation in the pond. They are brown in colour. Once they start to develop legs, tadpoles change from being vegetarians to carnivors. Most established ponds will have enough food for the tadpoles to develop to maturity.
Many tadpoles are eaten in Spring - up to 90% of the eggs, tadpoles or froglets in the pond are lost to predators (dragonfly larva, water boatmen, snakes or birds as they swim together in the warm shallow waters at the edge of a pond. They need as much cover from plant leaf as possible so they have somewhere to hide from these predators. This would include Myosotis species, Veronica beccabunga and in a larger pond area - Mentha aquatica, Menyanthes trifoliata and Rorippa nasturtium-aquaticum.
Garden ponds are often home to more than one species of amphibian - see newt and toad sections - this is a healthy situation and shows that the pond is functioning well. A cyclical predator-prey relationship will establish where the numbers of one will control another until all becomes balanced eg newts are a predator of frog tadpoles especially in the weeks immediately after frog spawning when adult newts are in the pond laying their eggs on the same pond plants the tadpoles are swimming in.
Adult frogs can be affected by Frog red leg - ranavirus - on hot days between June and August, as it is most virulent at temperatures above 25°C. The most common way to identify the problem is to find a large number of dead frogs in a short space of time with the frogs often thin and lethargic before death. 

Affected f
rogs may appear with: 
Drowsiness (lethargy).
Abnormal wasting (emaciation). 
Redness of the skin (erythema). 
Skin ulcers or sores. 
Bleeding (systemic haemorrhaging), especially from mouth/anus. 
Breakdown of limbs (limb necrosis).
Eye problems.
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Which plants could help toads to spawn?

 Toads look different to frogs as they have a 'warty' skin and waddle rather than jump and are larger than frogs.
When the weather warms up in Spring toads will leave their places of hibernation. All they are interested in is getting back to their breeding ponds & not just any pond but the one they grew up in themselves that has been used by their family for generations. They will try to get back there even if a busy road is in the way and can travel up to 2 km from the grasslands where they spend the rest of the year. Toad wardens exist at some well known crossing points to help the toads survive these road crossings. Each toad can live up to 40 years. 

Toads are 'at risk' and are protected from sale.
The male grabs his female in an 'amplexus' grasp - sometimes even before they reach water. He fertilises the egg strings as she lays them whilst swimming amongst the deep water oxygenators and deeper plant stems as they move around during mating to avoid other males. Toads can occupy a deeper area of the pond than frogs as they can produce a nasty tasting toxin that means they are safer from predators. Even toad tadpoles taste unpleasant and can survive in open water in a pond shared with fish. 
toad spawn is wound around the underwater stems of a Caltha palustris
Toads lay egg strings amongst the plant growth well under the water surface. So a plant with at least 4" of submerged, upright bushy growth is useful.

The stems of a plant like this Caltha palustris which are under the water surface will be used by the female toad to inter-twine her spawn. She releases masses of these strings of jelly each about 1/2" wide containing about 2000 eggs in total and she leaves them draped around the plants underwater. This toadspawn was found and photographed in the first week of April 2012.
The adults will shortly leave the pond to return to their grassland areas where they sleep all day and forage for insects at night. The eggs develop into black tadpoles in 10 days. Then the tadpoles will undergo metamorphosis over the next 10-12 weeks to change from tadpoles to toadlets with fully formed legs ready to leave the pond.
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Pond plants for insect pollinators

Pond plant flowers can be part of the garden food chain that can help sustain many groups of British insects - butterflies, moths, hoverflies wasps and bees. Flowers can offer sources of nectar and pollen - insects need nectar as an energy source and pollen grains contain proteins and oils. All insect visitors attracted to a flower as a food source will also be able to transfer pollen on its body to another flower of the same plant and complete the pollination process leading to fertilization and the production of seeds or fruit.
Aim to have plants whose flowers are attractive to pollinating insects in bloom from Spring to Autumn. Avoid double flowers as they may be lacking in nectar and pollen and insects may have difficulty gaining access to them.
The following list of pond plants have flowers 'Perfect for Pollinators' (RHS)  Perfect for Pollinators
 Alisma plantago-aquatica  Nymphaea alba
 Butomus umbellatus  Potentilla palustris
 Caltha palustris  Ranunculus aquatica

Plants for moist and boggy areas 'Perfect for Pollinators'
 Aruncus dioicus
 Filipendula ulmaria
 Eupatorium cannabinum 
 Geum rivale 
 Eupatorium maculatum
 Primula veris

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Wildlife cover in the summer

Greater surface cover later in the year can be obtained from water lilies. The only Native waterlily is Nymphaea alba which can be too vigorous for a small pond so substitute the smaller white Hermine.
Or use the Native Frogbit (Hydrocharis Morsus Ranae) whose leaves only grow to 1" in diameter and Water Soldier (Stratiotes aloides). These plants will help to protect the young and vulnerable newts as well as the frog and toad tadpoles undergoing metamophosis from the egg stages through to adults in different areas of the pond.
Oxygenating plants will be increasing in volume in the warmer summer months and should be allowed to fill 30% of the volume of the pond. This gives further places for young amphibiams to hide in different depth zones of water as they grow and mature.
The shelf or sloping ledge areas of the pond can add further seasons of flowering interest and encourage visits by hoverflies and bees - Butomus umbellatus, Lythrum salicaria and Caltha palustris. Plant growth on the shelf areas of the pond will give protection as the young leave for the first time and plants like Iris whose rhizomes walk out into the water make that transition between water and land smoother.
Moist and bog plantings around the outside of the pond water will be full and leafy in growth by now and as well as giving the pond a backdrop and setting they provide foraging places for slugs and other insects whilst they are hiding under a protective canopy.
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Plants for dragonflies

dragonfly casing abandoned on a tall upright plant

Your choice of marginal pond plants can also help some wildlife to climb out of the pond - dragonfly and damselfly larvae will use the tall stems of marginal plants - Water Iris, Lythrum salicaria, Butomus umbellatusEriophorum
 and Cyperus species to climb out and emerge as adults leaving the larvae casing left abandoned when they fly for the first time.

dragonflies rest in the sun on tall Pontederia cordata leaf
They will then rest on tall plant leaves like this Pontederia or the Schoenoplectus stems and bask in the sunshine or swoop over the water in a ritual mating routine in search of a partner.
Dragonflies use upright stems of the tall sedge Schoenoplectus - the soft stem bulrush

the copulatory wheel can be formed in flight or on an upright stem above the water The copulatory wheel takes place either using upright plant stems like Typha species or waterlilies but never far from the water. Dragonflies and damselfies will use waterlilies as a perch during mating as long as they remain out of the water

A female will lower her ovipositor down into the water to release her eggs without allowing her entire body to get wet This will result in the females laying their eggs back into the mud at the edge of the pond or into the water around the marginal pond plants or waterlilies. The dragonfly larvae then live beneath the water surface for years until it is their time to climb out on the upright pond plants in the last few months of their lives to go through the same cycle as their parents.

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Winter in the wildlife pond

Frogs, and sometimes newts, may lie dormant at the bottom of a pond in winter. In very icy winters frogs can die of 'winterkill' which occurs when toxic gases released in the pond through natural decomposition of dead leaves can not escape from the pond due to the layer of ice and the water can be become deoxygenated. Though this can be upsetting to pond-owners this is a natural occurance and will only affect a very small percentage of the local frog population.

In your garden pond you can try and reduce the likelihood of 'winterkill' by trying to maintain oxygen levels in the pond. Clear any fallen snow from the ice to ensure that plants can see light and be able to photosynthesize and produce oxygen. Also prepare your pond for winter by removing some sediment and debris - leave a little for the frogs to bury down in and add more oxygenating plants. If you have a pump - leave this running over the winter.
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How can I control blanketweed in a pond for wildlife as I do not want to use chemicals?

The natural, organic method for controlling blanketweed is to use Barleystraw products - either in the form of the straw itself or the liquid concentrate for a smaller water space together with the correct balance of planting. Oxygenating plants to compete for the mineral salts and surface cover pond plants to block out sunlight are vital. Chemical products should be avoided in the pond water.
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How can I build an area for moist planting or bog garden around my pond? if my soil does not retain water?

You can create an area that can be kept moist or wet by digging out 2ft of soil and lining the hole with cheap lining material like builders damp proof membrane. Add 3” depth of gravel for drainage and the puncture the membrane with a fork. This will allow some drainage but keep some moisture in the soil. Refill the lined hole with good soil and humus rich compost and cut the liner off at the top so it blends into the rest of the garden. This area can then be kept as wet as you like by watering from a porous or leaky hosepipe that will constantly drip when attached to a tap or water butt. This area will provide protection for wildlife species as they leave the water and you will find that by encouraging frogs to the area they will protect Hosta’s and other plants eaten by slugs.
pond construction showing shelf levels
In the Great Garden Revival Thursday 9th January 2014 Charlie Dimmock built a pond with a planted wildlife zone enclosed within the pond water area. For this you must fill with aquatic compost and use plants from the shelf 0 category that will accept their roots and crowns in water ie shallow depth pond plants not bog/moist plants as the latter will not survive with water permanently over their crowns.
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