Design the pond:
- Lay out a hosepipe on the ground to see the shape from all angles and check for access around it. View from inside (upstairs and downstairs) and walk around outside.
- Consider the sharpness of any curves to the pond edge - think about mowing the lawn along this curve - is it too tight for the mower?
- In a small space make your pond design as simple as possible. Too much fuss in a shape can lead to the area feeling too busy.
- Fish ponds or raised planted ponds.
- Not ideal as wildlife ponds.
- A part of their interest is in the design of the structure itself (see image above).
Informal ponds for plants and wildlife:
- Check whether your site is level – the finished pond will have a water line that finds a level which may not be apparent to the naked eye.
- A rockery or sloping cobble beach may help on a sloping site. Or link 2 smaller ponds together with a stream.
- Build a sloping shelf or exit with cobbles on at least one side of the pond for wildlife creatures.
- Surround the wildlife pond by planting from a bog zone or moist planting area as an emergence area
- Include flat shelves creating shallow water planting levels - we recommend a planting shelf at 5-6", another at 6-9", possibly a third at 10-17" deep with a base of maximum 2'6". (or 13-15cm, 15-22cm and 23-44cm and a base of maximum 75cm).
- Plan a sitting area near the pond. This is often a favourite place to sit and watch either the wildlife or the fish.
- Make the pond as large a surface area as your space allows.
- By the time you have finished and included the hard landscaping edge the water area of the pond always looks smaller than you expect.
- It is easier to maintain the water temperature and balance in a larger rather than a smaller surface area pond.
- Think about a patio container pond for small garden spaces – it can be a focal point in the garden or placed in a secluded quiet corner near a seating area – more detail is available on the container ponds page.