Pond shape and design:
- Lay out a hosepipe on the ground to see the shape from all angles and check for access around it. View from inside (upstairs and downstairs) and walk around outside.
- Consider the sharpness of any curves to the pond edge – think about mowing the lawn along this curve – is it too tight for the mower?
- In a small space make the design of your pond as simple as possible. Too much fuss in a shape can lead to the area feeling too busy.
- Often used as fish ponds or planted ponds for older gardeners.
- They are not ideal as wildlife ponds.
- A large part of their interest is in the design of the structure itself (see image above).
- Check whether your site is level – the finished pond will have a water line that finds a level which may not be apparent to the naked eye.
- A rockery or sloping cobble beach may help on a sloping site or 2 smaller ponds linked together by a stream.
- Build a sloping shelf or exit with cobbles on at least one side of the pond if you want to encourage wildlife creatures.
- Surround the wildlife pond by planting from a bog zone or moist planting area as an emergence area
- Include flat shelves creating shallow water planting levels – we recommend planting shelf 0 at 5-6″, shelf 1 at 6-9″, shelf 2 at 10-17″ deep with a base of maximum 2’6″. (or 0-13cm, 14-22cm and 23-44cm and a base of maximum 75cm).
- Include a sitting area near the pond as this is often a favourite place to sit and watch either the wildlife visitors or the fish.
- Think about a patio container pond – it, too, can be a focal point in the garden or placed in a secluded quiet corner near a seating area – more detail is available on the container ponds page.
- Make the pond as large a surface area as your space allows.
- By the time you have finished and included the hard landscaping edge the water area of the pond always looks smaller than you expect.
- It is easier to maintain the water temperature and balance in a larger rather than a smaller surface area pond.