Submerged oxygenators, waterlilies and floating plants:

Shelf Suitable for shelf depth 45cm+ (approx 18”+): Plants for deeper water 45cm(18″) plus:

1. Oxygenating pond plants:

Allow two portions of oxygenating plant (however supplied – bareroot, bunched or potted) per square metre of surface area for planting a new pond

  • vital to the freshness and clarity of the water
  •  users of dissolved nitrates/mineral salts from the water so in time help to control algae growth through competition for mineral salts.
  • give shade to the water surface so blocking sunlight from the algae cells beneath and inhibiting their growth.
  • producers of oxygen in sunlight that enables pond wildlife to survive.
  • need to be maintained on a regular basis so that they do not fill more than 30% of the volume of the pond or container pond.

British Native oxygenators:

  • Choose a selection of oxygenating plants so you have a variety in active growth at any time.
  • If in doubt – add more submerged oxygenators to a new pond as the first winter can be a time when a lack of oxygen in the pond water will lead to wildlife deaths.
  • It will take you some years to reach the ideal level of 30% volume full of submerged plant growth.
  • Leave as many oxygenating plants as possible in the pond through Winter and thin out in Spring if you still feel you have excess then.

2. Waterlilies:

50-70% of your water surface area should be covered by plant growth to keep the water cool and shaded for a well balanced pond

  • Delivered rooted in aquatic compost in a mesh basket and able to be placed immediately into your pond.
  • if the waterlily already has leaf growth that has reached the surface of our pond in the Nursery and so is laying flat you should place it at a similar depth in your pond
  • stand the basket on another basket filled with gravel or equivalent. Submerging the top surface of the waterlily leaf below water level by more than a couple of inches will make the leaf rot as it cannot ‘breathe’
  • waterlily baskets can be lowered later but best to do this in Autumn.
  • a waterlily will see more sunshine if it is not too deep allowing the rhizome to grow stronger
  • the rhizome needs to be below potential ice level for Winter.

Waterlilies provide much needed shade to the deeper water areas keeping the pond temperature constant and algae growth low whilst providing colourful waterlily flowers on the pond surface. 

3. Hardy British Native floating plants:

(Stratiotes aloides – Water Soldiers and Hydrocharis morsus-ranae – Frogbit

  • these can avoid the winter cold by dropping down below the surface of the water to overwinter as dormant buds in deeper, less cold water.
  • these will then reappear in late Spring as the water temperature warms up.
  • they rise and fall in the water so are not potted into a basket but grown loose in the water.

4. Aponogeton distachyos:

  • Grows like a waterlily from a basket placed on shelf 3
  • It sends its first leaf growth up to the surface early in the year which can often be spoiled by frost or snow fall.
  • The crown of the plant is not affected by the cold and more leaves will grow
  • its leaf covers the water area from February to May with unusual, fragrant white and black flowers
  • It will die back as the waterlily leaves appear as it dislikes hot water and warm sunshine (it will survive longer in a shaded pond) and spends the Summer as a dormant corm in its basket.
  • Do not throw this basket out thinking the plant is dead – it is not. It is like a daffodil bulb in the lawn – once its season of interest is over you will not know it is there, waiting to reappear next year.

Aponogeton distachyos are only available when in active growth so if they are currently unavailable when you choose your plant selection click ‘Email when available’ and you will receive an email when they are available to purchase – generally between January and April only.