Your pond plants will start to go brown and die back in Autumn
This is nothing to worry about.
Most will start to decay – they are not dying but reverting back to buds, rhizomes or corms to overwinter before shooting into growth again next Spring.
We have photographed some of our plants in the Nursery in October so that you can see that yours are looking just the same.
- Foliage should be cut from the Anemopsis californica before it rots into the water
- Butomus umbellatus brown leaf should be pulled out of the water by hand
- Caltha palustris marked foliage should be cut back
- Cyperus involucratus dead foliage should be cut down but green stems should be left until Spring before being cut back.
- Leave any Equisetum species plants with foliage intact – some stems will go orange and some grey. Neaten off in Spring by rubbing your hand over the surface roughly or trimming the top of the stems to only remove the non-green parts. If you cut the green stems they will take some time to regrow.
- Cut down Iris species foliage to 6″above water surface level,
- Cut Lythrum salicaria woody stems down to 6″ above water surface level – they will reshoot in Spring from the hard wood stem.
- Myosotis species stems will have gone black – remove the stems you can see above the water line but those under the water will reshoot next Spring.
- Cut back the leaf of Pontederia cordata species before they fall and rot but leave the stalks above the Winter water level of your pond as the stems are hollow
- Pull off the dying leaf of Potentilla palustris but leave the woody, rafting stem intact unless you want to reduce the spread of the plant
- Cut down the stems and dead foliage of Typha species to 6″ above the Winter water level of your pond
- Remove dying brown leaves of any waterlilies and any flower buds that are lying sideways on the water surface that are going to sink.